Sun, fun and the new year has begun

We're back from holiday. Actually two holidays that will be handled in two separate posts. Up first, the Canary Islands. We left Göteborg on December 23rd and after a night's stay in Frankfurt (damn you Orbitz!) we headed for Tenerife on Christmas Eve. Spent the night in Santa Cruz de Tenerife. Quaint city. Absolutely shut down on Christmas Eve. But, that didn't stop us from walking about and enjoying the festive holiday decorations. Note: The images below link to my Picasa photo album with all trip photos.


The next day we headed South down the western coast of Tenerife. We stopped at a couple of towns including Puerto de la Cruz. Saw the lighthouse at Punta de Teno. And drove along some pretty steep and twisting roads before arriving in Playa de las Américas. Now, Playa de las Américas is a true resort town (for better or worse) that seems to cater predominantly to Brits. Every restaurant served an English breakfast (lots of beans and sausage). There were more English pubs than in SoHo. And some grocery stores even advertised "we sell English food." Cause who would want to eat paella all the time? Um.....I would. But, at the end of the day, you could always count on a great sunset and cool drink to refocus attention on where you were...


The next day, we headed up. Not just North, but up. To El Teide. The highest point in Spain (of which the Canary Islands is a part) and the Atlantic Ocean at 3718 meters. We waited over 2 hours for the gondola cables to be cleared of ice before we were allowed to head up. Unfortunately we didn't have time to get a pass that would allow us to climb to the summit and inside the crater, but we made due at 3600 meters just below the top. And we were rewarded with awesome views of the surrounding volcanic landscape, nearby islands, and a winter wonderland.


The next day we headed by ferry to the nearby island of La Gomera. We stayed two nights in San Sebastián de la Gomera. La Gomera is a small island that has a large park (Parque Nacional de Garajonay) in the center and coastal towns and beaches at the peripheries. We toured the entire island the first day. Did I mention how steep the roads were? Very. Scary. On the way back, [I made] TJ pose for this photo.


We spent the remainder of the afternoon in Playa de Santiago. At a brightly colored beach cafe, we enjoyed beer, some fried calamari, and a lot of sun. Then back to San Sebastián de la Gomera for evening sangria and dinner. San Sebastián is small but vibrant. The building facades provided a great subject for my photography. The next day, we headed back through the cold, foggy mountains to the warmth of Valle Gran Rey. This little beach and port enclave is well-known by German tourists. The highlight of our trip. Then back to San Sebastián de la Gomera for evening sangria and paella. The paella took 40 minutes to make but was well worth the wait. The wait included a few Dorada cervezas and some almogrote spread made with goat cheese and mojo sauce.

And, then, all too quickly, back to Playa de las Américas on Tenerife. There, we met up with Jenn and Bridget. TJ and Jenn went to Kellogg together. We celebrated TJ's (43rd) birthday. I opted for a variety of treats instead of a cake. The cakes I looked at were the size (and shape) of a log. Still, the four of us did some damage on what we had.



TJ, Jenn and Bridget stayed out until 3am both of our final 2 nights in Playa de las Américas. I was the old man who goes to bed [relatively] early. I did, however, go the distance on New Year's Eve.

We drove back to Santa Cruz de Tenerife. And, as was the case on Christmas Eve, most restuarants were not serving dinner in preparation for the evening's festivities. Luckily, we found a cafe off the main square where we were able to sample Canary Island cuisine. Bars were not opening until AFTER midnight. So, we walked around town for a bit. This small park with tiles benches afforded a nice backdrop for a group photo.



Then, to the hotel to have some cocktails, count down to the new year, eat our 12 grapes by the 12th strike of the clock at midnight, and toast with champagne. And into the streets we went. There was a street with a live band and a group of trendy bars/cafes. We stayed there until the wee hours. The locals, especially, the young, were dressed in their finest suits and dresses. We didn't mind slumming it a bit. A great way to end our winter holiday. You can find all the photos from our Canary Islands trip here.

Jul Time

Christmas is in the air. And, in Sweden, they're not going to let a little "bad economic weather" rain on their holiday. A poll taken in December showed that most Swedes were not going to curtail their spending despite the gloomy national and global economies. So, shoppers are out in full force. The pedestrian sidewalks have been packed with shoppers.

The image on the left is our hood. Looking down Kungsgatan towards city centre, there was a mass of hurried buyers as far as the eye could see. Note the decorative lighted crowns that guard over the pedestrian street. The image on the right is a view into Haga, the historic section of town. There has been an outdoor Christmas market all along the street each weekend in December.

It was in Haga that I made my ultimate Christmas and ultimate fun purchase. A tomte. How cool is he? He was made in the 1920's or 30's. I found him in an antique shop last year on our pre-visit. But, I did not buy him at the time (frugal, moi?). Now, there were only three left and this little guy was in the best condition. Best of all, his price had come down. Way down. Lucky, frugal, me. For a brief description of a tomte, click on the image.

So, besides a tomte, what else defines Christmas in Sweden? Well, I guess there would be the julbock or Christmas Goat. The goat is made from straw and wrapped in red ribbon. He is placed under the Christmas tree or near the fireplace waiting for tomte and guarding presents. There is a famous large-scale version of the straw goat in the town of Gävle. Merry pranksters tend to light it on fire every year. This year, it is untorched...so far.


More on Chritsmas in Sweden can be found here. I have to file this tradition under odd: black Christmas decorations. Saw these in a shop at the Christmas Markets at Liseberg.


I mean, we did think it was a bit odd that there were very few green Christmas lights around the city. Red? Check. Green, not so much. But, black decorations? Just plain odd.

For traditional holiday drink, eggnog comes in far behind something called Julmust. It's a holiday drink specific to Sweden.


Julmust is a non-alcoholic malt-flavored beverage that, in my opinion, tastes like a cross between Mr. Pibbs and Dr. Pepper. Apotekarnes is the preferred brand to drink (thanks, Sofie). Coca-Cola, which experiences a severe drop in sales during Christmas as Swedes switch to Julmust, has begun marketing its soda as "a Must for Christmas." Oh. So. Clever. not.

Speaking of clever, here is our Christmas greeting for 2008. Click on the image for a [much] larger version. Or click here and try to find the following:

1. A cantankerous or tame blue-eyed julbock
2. A slutty or saintly St. Lucia bearing lussekatter
3. A tuneful or screeching Singing Christmas Tree of Göteborg
4. A naughty or nice tomte

Lübeck Christmas Markets

Our trip to the Christmas markets in Lübeck, Germany was quite a fun adventure. We drove down, took a short ferry from Denmark to Germany, and arrived in Lübeck in late afternoon. Immediately headed toward city center and found the main Christmas market at Breite Straße (a pedestrian area). It was still early but the crowds were gathering. We picked the only night of the Christmas markets season when all markets and stores would be open until midnight.

So, we walked around and did a bit of window shopping. But, not before TJ had some piping hot glühwein. I had some as well. But, I really liked the spiced apple cider (äpfel punch).

The next day, it snowed. The forecast had called for party sunny skies with temps just above freezing. Um.....no. But the snow was a bonus. It's not something we get a lot in Göteborg. Of course, we did decide to drive into town instead of walking.

What better to do on a cold, snowy day then to head indoors. Which is what we did. Several of the Christmas markets are indoors. The best was the market inside Hospital of the Holy Spirit on Koberg. There was a line to get in. But, it moved. Eventually. The quality of the crafts was better than other markets around town. But, most importantly, there were three older women who were cranking out fresh waffles. Oh. My. God. Those were good. I wanted to get another, but a huge line had formed. How sad...for me.

Of course, at the market at Breite Straße, there were several booths selling small pieces of fried sweet dough covered with powdered sugar. That was a highlight. I have pictures from our little adventure posted online here. Or just select any of the images above to see them.

I end with this little guy. A genie of some sort. A grantor of wishes, perhaps. He oversaw a children's ride at the Christmas market on Koberg. I insisted that we walk back across town so that I could take a picture of him. We were in the process of deciding on a restaurant for dinner. After I "got the shot", we headed back to a Turkish restuarant we had passed. The name: Ali Baba. The meal was excellent. Our wish was granted.

To Market, To Market

Ooops. Forgot to mention that we are heading to Germany this weekend to experience the Chrismas market (Weihnachtsmärkte, in German). Several people strongly recommended that we visit the Christmas markets.

Although there are markets in both Göteborg and Stockholm, the ones in Germany are supposed to be the best. The absolute best is in Nuremberg. But, that a bit too far to drive, so we are heading Lubeck in Northern Germany. The Christmas markets in Lubeck should be fun.

Will have a full report when we return. Including what we bought.

God Jul, Already?

Here in Sweden, there is no major holiday, such as Thanksgiving, to prevent the start of Christmas season. Although I finally found a whole turkey at ICA Maxi, we are foregoing the traditional meal this year. No turkey. And, at over $3.25/lb., I can't say I'm too sad. Of course, not having pumpkin and apple-cranberry pies (freshly baked by yours truly) or my special corn bread and cranberry stuffing is a bit sad. We are going out that evening and depart the next day for a weekend trip.

So, some Christmas decorations went up around the city a few weeks ago. Large stars and snowflake with lights that stretch across narrow roads around city center. The bulk of the decorations will go up around the city on December 1st, or so we have been told. Including some hideous shapes with blue lights on the Aveny that I saw last year.

The stores have been pushing Christmas odds and ends since October. TJ has been in the holiday spirit and a diligent shopper. For my part, I bought some cookie cutters for the annual Christmas cookie bake-off and decorating event. And so it begins.

TJ has already decked our halls and walls with shiny red and silver ornaments. Cinnamon-scented candles liven the air. And this:

This is a tomte candle that you burn starting at the beginning of December to count down to Christmas Day. The tomte originally started off as a more pagan creature, but has now been folded into the traditional Christmas story involving St. Nick - the Christmas tomte. There are many variations of a tomte. I like the ones that look like gnomes. Like this one (clicking on image will take you to my Flickr photostream):

I plan on buying an antique, traditional looking tomte in the next few weeks. Expect a photo.

We attended our first holiday party - a glögg mingle. We met old faces and new in the most spacious, wonderfully decorated apartment just off the Aveny. Glögg is the Swedish version of mulled wine. Sweet, warm and tasty. A recipe if you are so inclined.

Unfortunately, we are missing a Lucia party this weekend. What fun that would have been. The actual date of the Lucia celebration is December 13th. It involves a young girl dressed in white with a crown of burning candles on her head. Glögg and lussekatter (St Lucy buns) are consumed. The buns, which I will have to try, are made with saffron. And, there is a Lucia song. More here. And here.