Don't Feed The Animals

I feel like someone's mother when I admonish TJ with "Do not feed the animals." I guess if he actually listened to me this wouldn't be an issue. But, he doesn't. There is some deep satisfaction that he seems to get when interacting with wildlife. And by wildlife, I mean birds and, occasionally, sheep. And by interacting, I mean feeding, petting, and chasing.

The history of TJ's behavior is documented. Here he is in New Zealand (2007) trying to make friends with a Kea. Actually, it looks more like he is trying to birdnap it.


And, here are some seagulls that needed feeding. Also in New Zealand.


And, here he is trying to goose a goose in London (2008)? Really? Really.


But, this time, he really takes the cake. It starts with a joke. Or what sounds like the beginning of a joke. A duck walks down the street. In this case, we were in Kalmar, Sweden, loading up the car for the trip home. The dogs had just been loaded into the car when I noticed a duck walking down the middle of the street towards us. TJ tempted it with a banana. Then, wondered aloud if he had to wash the banana now that the duck tried to bite it. Duck germs!


Next, TJ enticed the duck with some lowfat potato chips. The duck seemed to like this quite a bit. A dieting duck? TJ had made a new friend. However, I saw some potential problems with their relationship. I captured the events on video. So, as they say, on with the show....




The epilogue is that the duck walked into the convenience store, spooked a customer, and stood around the entrance until TJ came out. Luckily, the duck got distracted when TJ came out. And so, we made our escape. Lest we have a duck trailing us back to the car and flying alongside us on our way out of town. We drove by the convenience store and saw the duck standing out front eating crumbs on the sidewalk. He seemed happy enough. But, a nervous pigeon stood nearby and gave him the side-eye. There was now unexpected competition. TJ had reset the balance of survival of the fittest in Kalmar. Do not feed the animals!

Weekender: Småland and The Kingdom of Crystal

When TJ and I first heard that there was an area in Sweden where most of the country's glassblowers were located, we put it on our list of places to visit. The region is called the Kingdom of Crystal (glasriket, or glass realm, in Swedish). The home of glass royalty! How regal. If that weren't reason enough, TJ likes collecting glass objects. Hmmm, this may be a bit of an understatement. And I like one glass brand in particular - Kosta Boda. Besides, we smelled bargains. Glass factory outlets. How can you not find a deal there? So, a weekender to an area in southwestern Sweden called Småland. We brought the dogs along for added fun. Note: The images below link to my Picasa photo album with all trip photos.

Our first stop was the Boda glassworks and showroom. Boda was once a separate entity, but merged with Kosta-Boda. The factory was closed so we wandered through the showroom. No bargains to be found there. Luckily, this was not the main Kosta-Boda site. In an empty pasture, we exercised (read: wore out) the dogs. This way, they couldn't complain as we continued our tour of the Kingdom of Crystal.

The next stop was the Orrefors glassworks. The glassware here is a bit stuffier. Lots of stemware. And glass bowls that look like fancy ashtrays. Kinda pricey. Orrefors merged with Kosta-Boda in 1990. So, there was a Kosta-Boda store at Orrefors where this wonderful display was found.


These are my favorite Kosta-Boda glasses, called Mine. The Mine Collection includes glasses, tumblers, shot glasses, plates and bowls. We found some shot glasses in deep cobalt blue on sale. The purchase was prompted by a comment at a recent dinner party that we lacked a sufficient number of shot glasses. That situation has been remedied.

We eventually ended up at the Kosta glassworks. Kosta is Sweden's oldest glassworks and was founded in 1742. After wandering through the showrooms (TJ bought a small bowl), we entered the factory and watched a demonstration. Fascinating. But, it has to be a little monotonous to produce the same item with only slight variation.

One of our last stops was Transjö Hytta, a small glassworks with two Master glassmakers and two apprentices. When we arrived, the gallery appeared to be closed. We noticed an old barn next to a small stream and noticed movement. Upon closer inspection, there were two people inside rocking out to loud heavy metal music. As we approached, the music was turned way down. The two apprentices inside were in the middle of making a bowl. One, opened the gallery once he had delivered some color to the other artist at the prescribed time. TJ and I liked the work, but the signed pieces were expensive. TJ was leaning toward buying one of these despite the price. At that moment, one of the Masters came inside with a bowl that had a slight blemish. He priced it at nearly one-third the price for a similar bowl. In fact, he had only made three of these bowls; one of which was broken. That was good enough for TJ. Sold.

After a full day of glass perusing, it was time to head for Kalmar. We stayed in the Old Town area of this coastal city of 35,000. The building were old and charming. The town squares were reminiscent of grander European cities. For the rest of the evening we walked around with the dogs and explored the facades and cobblestone streets of the medieval town.


Back at the hotel, the dogs enjoyed playing hotel guest for a night. Zoey thought the beds were extremely comfortable.

The next day, we visited Kalmar Castle (slott, Swedish). Built in the 12th century, the castle underwent many structural improvements over the centuries. The well-preserved site includes cannons which used to protect its walls. Luckily, they don't work anymore (plugged with wood).


After our tour of the castle, we took the longest bridge in Sweden over to Öland, the second biggest island in Sweden. We headed South for a bit down the center of the island. Which was also the highest point on the island. And, it was here that we saw quite a few old windmills.


The island was long, so instead of driving all the way North or South, we opted to head East. There, we reached the Baltic Sea. And found an abundance of fossils in the rock formations on the shore. I brought a few back, including a partial Trilobite fossil. Yes, Geology Geek strikes again!

For more photos of our trip to Småland and The Kingdom of Crystal, click here.

Here are some of the items we purchased on our trip to the Kingdom of Crystal. Cobalt blue Mine shot glasses from Kosta-Boda.


Blue-green bowl from Transjö Hytta glassworks.

Romanian Holiday

More like a Romanian excursion. Bucharest. An old world Eastern European city. Really old world. Where architectural gems are scattered amongst abandoned buildings and vacant lots. Where Communist era buildings dominate the sky and offer a reminder of the not too distant past.

Sometimes, it's enough to make you lie down, close your eyes, and reflect on it all. Until you informed by a stern-looking policeman to move along. Note: The images below link to my Picasa photo album with all trip photos.


Former Eastern Bloc country. Check. May 1st. Check. May Day Celebration. Of course. Well actually, we weren't quite so certain that any events were planned. But after wandering around the massive Palatul Parlamentului, we came across some festivities in a park. This was the mici si bere (grill and beer) party. The Social Democratic Party sponsored the party and provided music, beer, and traditional grilled meat to the assembled crowd; the beer and meat were free). Entertainment was a Romanian rap singer with four young female dancers dressed in short shorts and hoodies. Good for a giggle or two.


In one of the pocket guides we read, it stated that for a genuine local experience you could feed a few stray dogs. Um, no. I had never been to a large city with so many strays wandering around; they were everywhere. And seemed to know how to cross the streets and navigate traffic quite well. They seemed wary of people. Probably for the best. We were told that a few years ago, the city rounded up and killed up to 75% of the stray dog population. I cannot even imagine what it was like before they culled the population.


Just some harmless graffiti folks. Nothing to see. Move along.


There was a large police presence in the city. Quite noticeable. On our way to the airport, our taxi driver remarked that the number of policeman was unusual even for Bucharest. He guessed that the President was probably heading into town. Sure enough, a heavily guarded motorcade passed by a few minutes later.

To see more images from our trip to Bucharest, click here.

Finally, a little video. On our first night in Bucharest, we ate at a fun beerhall/restaurant called Caru' cu Bere. I had it on my recommended list. And, when we walked by it in the afternoon, TJ put in on our "must go" list. We were seated right next to the bar and staircase. Which, at first, we thought was not a good place. Then, the floorshow started. Dancers came out and started moving around the open space. High-kicking and twirling in and around waiters and customers. Awesome! We met up with some guys (Mike and Francesco) from London the next day. And decided to meet them at Caru' cu Bere (again) for a late dinner. And another floorshow.

Sweet Meat

I have always loved them from afar. Occasionally, succumbing to their pleasures. So tempting. Overpowering. Intimidating. Until. I finally broke down. Searched them out on the Internet. And decided to try it firsthand. With no regrets.

Yes, it's true. I made a batch of lemon squares. I've made them twice so far.
The ones pictured below are actually lemon-lime squares. Tangy.

But be forewarned, this dessert contains dangerous amounts of sugar. It's a giant sugar bomb. Which is why I wanted to share the recipe. Found it at the LA Times website. Everyone should experience the tart excitement of this sugar overload. With a little raspberry sorbet on the side.

Now about the title of this post. Can't figure out where it's from? Think early 90's Brit alternative bands. The Soup Dragons. Off their album, Lovegod. Now, for the life of me, I cannot find a video of this song anywhere. Except for a 12" version (remember those) that doesn't really reflect the post-haze languish of the original. But, all is not lost for your aural and visual pleasure. This song also would have been an apt title for the post:

Parting Shots [Valencia]

Old world traditions. Modern attitude. Valencia has embraced both. I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to come back to this thriving metropolis on the Mediterranean. The distractingly beautiful architecture alone is enough for a return visit. That and the food.

For more fine art images from the Valencia trip, visit my Flickr photostream.

Like some strange future predator rearing its head, the Hemisfèric is a mass of lines and curves.

The Palau de les Arts Reina Sofía looks like it is coming in for a nibble on the overpass.

The Hemisfèric and Museu de les Ciències seem to be locked in a game of next-generation Pac-Man.

All signs point due East.

The Future is Spain

When I first saw images on Flickr of the futuristic buildings at the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Arts and Sciences), I knew I wanted to go there and photograph them. A destination in sunny Spain is nothing to sneeze at either. And so, TJ and I put Valencia on the list. We ended up booking our trip for Easter weekend. Note: The images below link to my Picasa photo album with all trip photos.

Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias is a futurescape set in the old river bed that winds around and through the heart of Valencia. The white tile, glass, and metal of the buildings seems a bit out of place in an old world city like Valencia. But, it signals the future. And TJ and I were happy to get lost in its modern appeal.

I saw this coffee mug at the airport. The graphic was way too cute to resist taking a photo. However, the price tag prevented me from considering a purchase. Maybe if I drank coffee.

This adorable representation of El Toro was in stark contrast to the bull fighting event that was shown live on TV. There were at least 5 bull fighters in the ring. Spain's president was in the stands along with a host of celebrities; this was a big event. The bull looked old. And tired. And, I have to say, I found it difficult to appreciate the pagentry and tradition of the sport. It seemed very violent. And very unfair. A true bloodsport. I turned it off before the swords were used.

I saw a bat on several manhole covers and was a bit perplexed. It turns out that the bat is a symbol for the city.

The bat rests over an emblem (crown and shield) as shown in this gate ironwork at the old city wall. A bat! How cool is that? Between that and the multitude of orange trees (and their fragrant flowers) all around the city, it's hard not to like Valencia.

And it is hard not to like the food of Valencia. Between the paella and the seafood (grilled cuttlefish and calamari), TJ and I indulged in a bit of Spanish gluttony. I also found a new tasty treat in torrejas.


Paella is one of the most well-known Spanish dishes. In Valencia, they make a variation called paella valencia; it is not your typical paella. Ingredients include green beans and great northern beans. Typically, there is no seafood. Instead, the meat is usually chicken. We were offered rabbit in one restaurant. Since, it was so close to Easter, we passed. You can't eat Peter Cottontail on Easter weekend. Still, it could have been worse. Rata de marjal (marsh rat) was one of the main ingredients of early paellas in the 18th century. As living standards rose in the 19th century, this early ingredient was replaced by other meats. Rat. I bet it tastes like chicken.

Speaking of Easter, we were looking for a place to eat on Saturday night and came across an Easter Mass at Valencia Cathedral. It was quite the procession. Thought this photo captured the requisite amount of religious mysticism.

To see more images from our trip to Valencia, click here.

GLAD PÅSK!

Glad Påsk! That's Happy Easter in Swedish. And what better way to celebrate Easter than with a bag of Påsk godis. And, that is exactly what I did. Last night, we made a trip to ICA Maxi and there in the frozen food aisles was a Påsk godis display calling my name. This morning, the godis bag is empty. I know I will pay for this somehow. But, for the moment my stomach feels fine and my head does not feel the sugar rush associated with the overconsumption of very sweet things.

Easter is a big holiday in Sweden. But, religion is not a big part of it. As is typical, there are pagan origins to some of the traditions that carry on today. It's less about the Easter Bunny and more about the Easter Witch. More here.

But, now is not the time to contemplate the religious significance of Easter here in Sweden, or lack thereof. No, now is the time to savor the flavor of Påsk godis gone by.

Parting Shots [Dublin]

Things that caught my eye while exploring this great city. The history, mood, and color of Dublin in images.

Peeling Back Layers of History

Red-eye Structural Support

A Guinness Moment

Walking on Broken Glass

Fading Irish Eyes Smile

I'm a bit late in posting about our trip to Dublin. And, so close to our Easter trip to Valencia. Absorbing two vastly different cultures in the space of a month. Yes, living in Europe does have its advantages.

Snow was falling when we left Göteborg. So much so that they had to de-ice the plane before take-off. We arrived in Dublin late Thursday afternoon to mostly sunny skies. It was the weekend before St. Paddy's Day. We were staying in the Temple Bar area, the heart of Dublin nightlife. For more photos of our trip to Dublin, click here.

All signs pointed to the festivities taking place the next week. Lots of shops sold celebratory paraphernalia. TJ eyed the hats and tried a few on. On Saturday, he finally broke down and bought one. Surely this hat is worth the 2.95 euros he spent, don't you think? Note: The images below link to my Picasa photo album with all trip photos.


There are bars and restaurants galore in Temple Bar. Some more festive than others. We did not drink in this puce green bar. Instead we opted for the elegant, red Temple Bar Pub down the road. But, regardless of the bar, you were guaranteed to find live singers and a livelier crowd. The crowds really picked up Friday and Saturday nights. There were a surprising number of Americans running about. A few we spoke with had found amazingly cheap flights to Dublin. So, why not hop on a plane and party in Dublin and tour the Irish countryside? Recession be damned!

We took a sightseeing bus around the city. Personally, I think these Hop-on Hop-off buses are the best way to get around in most cities. Not that I have anything against walking. We did a lot of that as well. We walked around the quiet, manicured lawns of Trinity College. And along the pedestrian shopping mecca of Grafton Street...where elbows push you 'round and buskers sing by candlelight (name that song). Viewed the state apartments in Dublin Castle. Passed through the dank recesses of Kilmainham Gaol, a former prison. And savored the view from the top of the Guinness Storehouse where we enjoyed a free pint.

I was skeptical at first about going to the museum. Neither TJ or I are big fans of Guinness beer. But, the 7-story building is absolutely beautiful. And, the exhibits were very well done. Now, I can see why it is one of the top visitor attractions in Ireland. And, well, there was that free pint of Guinness. Which turned out to be quite tasty.

Overall, the food and drink were pretty damn good in Dublin. Lots of character and taste. And sometimes, unintended humor. We passed by this bar while touring around the city. Wish we had been able to have drink here. I'm sure I would have felt right at home.

Opera Diva Wins Melodifestivalen

The winner of the 2009 Melodifestivalen has been selected to represent Sweden in the Eurovision contest. It's opera singer, Malena Ernman, who sings La Voix in both English and French to a throbbing disco beat. It should have strong multi-national, multi-generational appeal. How can it lose? I mean, this is the 35th anniversary of ABBA winning the Eurovision contest. Well, that satirical musical number presented at the finals in Stockholm might not go over well with this year's Eurovision host country, Russia. More on that later.

Melodifestivalen is bigger than ever. Here's an introduction to this year's event. There were four regional contests held around the country to select the semi-finalists for the finals in Stockholm. In additional, there was a second chance contest (andra chansen in Swedish) to select from those artists that did not make it through the semi-finals. The first regional show was right here in Göteborg. The event was televised live. According to reports, 3 million people watched that show. For perspective, Sweden only has a population of 9 million. In the United States, 100 million people would have to American Idol to achieve the same ratings success.

My take on the artists and songs in this year's contest can be described in one word: flat. There were some very lackluster performances and forgettable songs. Now, I like Alcazar, but their song, Stay the Night, was as limp as a semla sitting in milk. At least compared to this little ditty, which I love. And, Måns Zelmerlöw's Hope & Glory didn't have any. Måns was a favorite going in to the contest. Maybe next year. I still think he is the Enrique Iglesias of Sweden. E.M.D. with Baby Goodbye was pretty good but the song title was self-fulfilling. And Agnes, who I like, didn't deliver enough Love Love Love. Still, most had the requisite sing-along-pop and dance sensibility. Which is what Melodifestivalen is all about. The winner, Malena, wasn't expected to do well, but the public voted for her in big numbers.

Now, on to the controversy. At the finals, there was a parady skit and dance number that mocked Russia and its national anthem. The dance number had Matryoshka dolls and Cossacks and dancing bears. Oh my. Lots of Russian stereotypes. Offensive, maybe. But, funny as well. Oh, those nutty Swedes. Enjoy.




And, one final treat. In honor of ABBA's win at Eurovision 35 year's ago, here is a video of them singing Waterloo in Swedish at Melodifestivalen that same year.

Shopping Cart Rentals

Pay a deposit to obtain a shopping cart. Get the deposit back when you return the cart. This sounds like a strange concept to some of you. But, the system is common throughout Europe. And it works quite well. Of particular interest to Americans, you see few, if any, shopping carts that have strayed far from their respective store parking lots. As a former grocery store employee (more than 25 years ago), I can attest to the straying nature of shopping carts. They just like to roam.

So, the system is quite simple. There are two slots for coins; one each for a 5 kronor or a 10 kronor coin. Depending on the exchange rate, that works out to something over $0.50 to less than $1.75 for your shopping excursion. So, in most cases, you really do want that coin back. Insert the coin into the slot and the chain connecting your cart to the one behind it is released. Reverse the process after shopping by reconnecting the chain to your cart. Voila! Coinage retrieved.

And, yes, TJ and I shop at Willy:s. We like Willy:s. Um, I mean we like to shop at Willy:s. Oh, you know what I mean.

Scene: Spring Awakening!

Finally! Spring has sprung. And not a moment too soon. The flowers have been pushing earnestly through the ground for the past week or two. We were almost able to walk about with no jacket on Saturday. Almost. Maybe another couple of weeks for that feat. But, seriously, where do Swedes get their tolerance to frolic about in t-shirts or a short skirt in cold weather? They've been doing it all Winter long. Certainly, my time here has not been long enough to master those chillin' skills.

Anywho, this was the scene this Spring weekend in Kungsparken in Göteborg. Flowers are blooming. That's blommor är blommande if you are following along in Swedish. Hard to believe that it was just 6 months ago that Autumn had settled in.

Just a little reminder...

Semla Tasting Contest

Well, if someone's gotta handle the tough assignments, it might as well be me. The relocation service department (WIN) of the West Sweden Chamber of Commerce and Industry (Västsvenska Industri- och Handelskammaren) sponsored a semla tasting contest. This activity involved eating, judging, and scoring. How could I pass up that opportunity?

First, the basics. What is a semla? A semla is a wheat bun made with cardamom that is sliced in two, filled with almond paste and whipped cream, and dusted with powdered sugar. Now for an important distinction: multiple semlas are called semlor.
A good overview of the semla is here. Traditionally, semla was consumed on the last Tuesday before Lent, otherwise known as Fat Tuesday, or Fettisdagen in Swedish. But, Swedes cannot resist a sweet tasty treat. And so, you will see semla appearing in stores starting January and continuing on through Easter.

As part of the semla hype, newspapers have "Best Semla" competitions. And, so with Swedes weighing in on the best semla, it was thought to give non-Swedes a chance to test their taste buds and voice their opinion. Göteborg takes its semla seriously. There is even a semla academy in the city. There are established standards for making semla. More on what makes a good semla is here. Apparently, it's all about the almond paste.

I had tried a semla last year. And came away not being impressed at all. It was like eating a dinner roll with super light whipped cream. I don't even remember tasting any almond paste. Which may have been the problem. Still, plain [flavorless] whipped cream does nothing for me. I tried not to take this bias into the contest.

We tasted semlor from four different establishments; two of which were from the Best of Göteborg list. Each semla was cut into four pieces. As you can see below, cutting a semla is not always an easy task. But, the fresher (softer) the bun, the easier it is. This particular semla had a dry bun. Not so easy. And kind of messy.

Still, the pieces were big. And, I ended up having five. I had to resample Semla 1.

The results: the group chose the semla from ICA Focus, a grocery store, as the best. I used to love buying donuts, muffins, and cookies from the local grocery stores (Shaw's in Maine, King Sooper in Colorado, and Safeway in California). Just an unscientific observation.

Second place went to Brogyllen Konditori, which was voted #1 in the Best of survey. Interestingly, we rated the semla from Steinbrenner & Nyberg last; while the Best of survey rated it #2. My favorite was voted #3 overall. The almond paste was mild (not overpowering) and smooth. The cream, light but not too airy. And the bun was soft, moist, and slightly chewy. Cultural palettes diverge at the semla.

The Iceman Cometh

What a difference a year makes. So, yes, let's acknowledge that milestone. I arrived in Sweden on February 15, 2008. It was cold and gray...and raining. And it continued to rain for many a days (weeks) to come. What an introduction. This year, things are a bit different weather-wise. Much colder. Less mud. And, even some measurable amounts of snow. The canals froze over and ice appeared in the harbor. It was like a Swedish version of a glacial lagoon.

It also reminded me of Portland, Maine. When our family first moved to the area in the mid-70's, I remember reading about abnormally cold and harsh winters of days gone by. In Casco Bay, off Portland, there are numerous islands on which people have lived since the area was first settled. The main transport to the islands was by boat. But, on several occasions over the past 200 years, the bay froze solid. There were stories of people taking horse drawn carriages or driving cars across the bay to the islands. That thought has always stayed with me. And for a brief moment, I thought the harbor just might freeze over here in Göteborg. Not quite, but I'll take what I can get.

A few days after this scene on the harbor, we had a wonderful snowstorm. It has snowed lighted for a few days. With little accumulation to show for the effort. But, then, it just came down. TJ and I had our friends and neighbors, Sofie and Kalle, over for dinner. And, I was itching to go outside and play in the snow. As were the dogs. They told me so. So, into the white we did go.

Dogs like snow. Although Lily had her fill by this point. Zoey, not so much. And everyone was all smiles until the snowballs started flying. The snow had become heavy and made for great snowballs.

We regrouped for one final photo before heading back into the warmth of the apartment. Sofie and I enjoyed tea and hot chocolate while TJ and Kalle continued with beer. A perfect winter nightcap.

By the next day, the temperature had risen and a lot of the snow had melted. Still, it gives me hope that I might see more snow through the rest of the season.

So, you may have noticed that I like to talk about the weather. Some people do. Though, in most instances it is because that is a safe and easy subject with which to initiate and advance a conversation. But for me, it is more. I love weather. I trace my interest back to when our family lived in Elizabethtown, Kentucky in the early 1970's. One afternoon, I remember coming out of the dentist office with my Mom and sisters. Up in the sky were the strangest clouds I had ever seen; they looked like cotton balls. I now know their name is mammatocumulus. They are sometimes associated with tornadoes. We went to the town center and continued errands. Coming out of a store, a huge gust of wind blew down the street. Later, we were informed a tornado had touched down within a mile of where we were. It was April 3, 1974; the day of a major tornado outbreak in the US. I've been fascinated ever since.

There are a few things most people don't know about me. One is that in 1991, I was accepted into a meteorology program at the University of Washington in Seattle. It would have been a second BS degree. I had dreams (perhaps, delusions) of working for the Weather Channel. Instead, I took a job with the Defense Department. Delusion deferred. And so, I talk about the weather. Humor me.

Caught!

Zoey riding the elevator again. Unsupervised.